Bags from the Sierra

Nevada of Colombia

CRAFT » Nidle work

OBJECT » TUTU IKU

LOCATION » Katanzama - Santa Marta

Standing on the shores of the Caribbean coast, the inland view is dominated by the majestic landscape of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. One of the highest coastal ranges in the world, home to the Arhuaco, Kogi, Wiwa and Kankuamo indigenous communities, descendants of the Tairona culture. The Sierra Nevada Nacional Park is an area with a unique ecosystem, that seems to be a small-scale representation of our planet’s landscapes. Due to its isolation from the Andes and its proximity to the sea, the area combines rainforests, deserts, coral reefs, glaciers, savannas and alpine lakes. Declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO, the park was identified as one of the world’s most irreplaceable areas.

The Arhuaco inhabit several parts of the National park with communities scattered across the coastal territories reaching right up to the high mountain range. Traditionally dressed in white tunics, the Arhuaco are identified by the intricately woven bags known as Tutu Iku or Mochilas. The bags are an integral part of the Arhuaco identity, considered to carry thoughts, preserve stories and transmit messages. They are a symbolic representation of the female form, of fertility and of Mother Earth. 

The Arhuaco people are highly spiritual, strongly believing that balance and order is the key to life. For the Arhuaco the Sierra Nevada is the heart of the world and their place of origin. They see mountains, rivers, forests and lakes as sacred beings that should be honoured and represented within the patterns of the mochilas. The bags are exclusively woven by women using a needle technique which is a crossover between knitting and crochet. The bag is tightly woven in monochromatic or multi-coloured patterns according to its use and material. For the Arhuaco women mochilas record their thoughts and capture the weaver’s energy, therefore from an early age girls are taught the importance of being free of all negative thoughts whilst weaving.

The coastal village of Katanzama is located alongside the river Don Diego surrounded by wildlife and cacao plantations. The settlement is home to a small Arhuaco community who have occupied the land fairly recently. Coastal Arhuaco territories are considered their ancestral lands that were abandoned during colonial times to avoid conflict, fleeing to higher grounds of the Sierra for protection. 

Whilst in Katanzama we were hosted by Punsley Crespo Torres, a mother of two in her late 20’s who lives in a female dominated house. All the women of the household are skillful artisans who practice the craft on a daily basis. Like every Arhuaco woman, Punsley started weaving from the age of eight years old and will continue to practice the craft throughout her lifetime. She explained the three principal materials of the mochilas – fique, a cactus fibre, pure white cotton, and hand spun wool.

The cotton fibre is also used to hand weave the cloth for their traditional white dress, exclusively woven by men on a simple frame loom using a plain weave pattern. White colour has a symbolic meaning for Arhuacos; the men cover their heads with a conical white hat that represents the snowy peaks of the Sierra, whereas white cotton bags are produced for their spiritual leaders called Mamos. Mochilas are used daily by both men and women. Typically, men will carry multiple bags across their body, with one bag dedicated for the coca leafs.

For the Arhuaco, coca is a sacred plant used throughout their history. Men are commonly seen chewing coca leafs, mixing it up with a white lime powder made from burnt and crashed sea shells that activate the beneficial properties of coca. The powder is kept in a poporo, a hollowed calabash shaped by the constant rubbing with a wooden stick. The Arhuaco believe that the daily ritual of the poporo allows them to develop thought and concentration, honouring tradition and preserving their culture. Poporos have been recorded in Colombia as early as 300 B.C. originally made from gold, copper and ceramic. The poporo has become a Colombian national symbol after the discovery of the Quimbaya poporo, a beautifully crafted poporo made from gold and presently exhibited in the Golden Museum of Bogota. 

There are about 35000 Arhuaco leaving all around the Sierra Nevada. They see themselves as the older brothers responsible for sustaining balance and conserving life. The Arhuaco refer to the outside world as the younger brother, who is unable to realise the impact of its actions. Arhuacos’ way of life is considered as a prime example of conservation, celebrating indigenous practices and preserving their natural habitat. 

Since the 1980’s the Arhuacos experienced attacks from the Roman Catholic mission, followed by violence from the military, the drug trade and the guerrillas from the 1990s until recently, that resulted in severe loss of their lands. Unavoidably the communities abandoned their lower territories, fleeing conflict and choosing isolation. Katanzama is a recent example of ancestral land being returned to the Arhuacos, allowing the community to re-establish its territory and maintain its culture. 

Through this venture, the community wishes to create a stable and viable income, that can support families and help preserve their culture. Arhuacos see the production and export of their chocolate as a way to connect with the younger brother – the outside world. They explained how every chocolate is infused with the Arhuaco thoughts and teachings, hoping to transmit their environmental message with every bite.